YET AGAIN FROM DON WRIGHT
some eggs and CROSSES in the making. Enjoy !
From Don WRIGHT
: using Nono's 360F spherical cover Don made a second egg ( the
first one is in my glass showcase with my other treasures,
Don gave it to me with many other
of his works. See
his three latest works here
Added 2011 Nov
From Stefanos FANIDIS
(not many have been done ! ) Standard HERRINGBONE knot ( DO NOT,
like too many persons, confounded those with Standard
5 THK components 5L4B which make for an overall 25L 20B
One can have tutorials (
first one - second
one ) in my pages
A PROGRAM FOR MÖBIUS STRIP The name of the program is
rozeta. ( not rozetta not roseta and not rosetta )
STRUKTOR contacted me yesterday to impart the
The following quote gives all the needed information; Enjoy !
I developed a new method of manufacturing knots in the shape of the
head of the Turkish
It has the advantage that it allows these nodes to plait on normal
tools used for ordinary
Turkish head knots.
The idea is to add extra bights, which only serve to simulate the half
turn on the cylinder,
or a plane and disappear after pulling the knot and Mobius strip
This method works well for an even number of laps of the leads.
For an odd number of leads, the order of interlaces can be locally
broken, that is why I
didn't take them under consideration.
I did not make a separate index for Mobius Turk's Head knots, because
you can use the
index for the ordinary Turk's Head knots, adding extra
Easy to see that for even leads we have formula: extra bights = leads /
[open quote] I've been making
these for a time now. Depending on the cordage, these can be
("finger-sized") PolyPropylene, you can have a dishwashing brush ... ... that floats in
larger natural cordage, it will move ALL the sawdust or lathe chips or
eraser dust or
'whatever' out of the way, or clear sand and dirt from
obviously nothing but a back-splice (e.g. 2817), whipped after "enough"
length. I like to
whip it first with Nylon hauled Very Tight,
then cover that with a nice natural hitchery. The
too flexible, hence the extended hitching, which stiffened up the part
covered while leaving the exposed splice soft in the hand.
they can be made more attractive than these! To me, since I
expect these will be
consumed over time, I just practice tucking (or
backing -- later!) until it's long enough then
whip, (hitch?), fray
(why is it that "ravel" and "UNravel" mean the same thing?) and
"Close enough" is probably more work than they're
ultimately worth. But when you're done,
you'll find ways to
Also, if the end is
well whipped, you can take the last piece with the whipping and use it
a fingernail-cleaning brush!